Friday, November 25, 2011

"Second opportunity" Dress. Tutorial for a perfect fit of Burdastyle May/2011, # 128.


   Surely, you are wondering why this dress is called "Second opportunity"... Well, this has a logical explanation... I sewed this pattern for the first time in late September, the model is a pattern of Burdastyle May/2011, #128.
   The pattern was not widely accepted and several sewers thought is best to change back a little to get a beautiful dress in Joan Holloway´s style (Mad Men), I was one on those who saw beyong the puff back and the photo (not very favored) of the magazine where the pattern appears. So that first dress was "Lavender Dreams".
    However, this type of puff back , was very popular in 60´s and I think this is just one of things that I like about it....

    Seguramente, usted está preguntándose porqué este vestido se llama "Segunda oportunidad"...  Bien, esto tiene una explicación lógica... yo cosí por primera vez este vestido a finales de Septiembre, el modelo es un patrón de Burdastyle Mayo/2011, #128.
    El patrón no tuvo mucha aceptación y varias compañeras pensaron que lo mejor era alterar un poco la espalda para conseguir un hermoso vestido al más puro estilo de Joan Holloway (Mad Men), yo fuí una de las personas que vió más allá de la espalda abullonada y la foto (no muy favorecida) de la revista donde aparece el patrón. Así que aquel primer vestido fué "Sueños Lavanda".
   Sin embargo, yo sabía que este vestido podía ser realmente bonito con algunas pequeñas modificaciones y decidí que tenía que coserlo otra vez llevando mis ideas a la práctica...
   Además, este tipo de espalda fruncida fué muy popular en los años 60 y yo creo que esta es precisamente una de las cosas que me gusta de él...

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   So with this in my mind, I knew that sewing the dress as the pattern isn´t very flattering, then my mind began to imagine that if there was any way to "hold" the front of the dress to my body, would be great and it does not look like a "sack" without form, I don´t know if this makes sense to you... The main idea was that the dress stuck to my body on the front and back completely limp.

   Así que con esta perspectiva, yo sabía que coser el vestido tal y como viene el patrón no era muy halagador para la silueta, entonces mi mente empezó a imaginar que si había alguna forma de "sujetar" la parte delantera del vestido al cuerpo, estaría genial, el vestido así no parecería un "saco" sin forma, yo no sé si esto tiene sentido para usted... la idea principal era que el vestido quedara pegado al cuerpo en el delantero y completamente flojo en la espalda.

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  The first step was to eliminate the seam in the middle of the back, the pattern of the magazine has a back seam and it´s cut on straight line, well, this is a "nonsense"!!   For this piece has a nice weight, I cut it on the bies, all in one piece, without seams.

   El primer paso fué eliminar la costura en el centro de la espalda, el patrón de la revista tiene una costura y la espalda está cortada al recto hilo, bien ,esto es un "sin sentido"! para que esta pieza tenga una hermosa caída yo la corté al biés, toda de una pieza, sin costuras.

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   To get the idea that the front would be subject to my body, I did the next... the same back pattern , folder of that the width of the back is equal to the width of my back on the area of armhole, also folded the paper to remove excess in the waist area and drew a dart to adjust the waist, I took advantage of an old skirt that no longer used, but its fabric has a percentage of elastane, which is good for this "extra piece" is comfortable.

   Para conseguir la idea de que el delantero quedara sujeto a mi cuerpo, yo hice lo siguiente... el mismo patrón de la espalda, doblado de forma que el ancho de la espalda sea igual al ancho de mi espalda en la zona de la sisa, también doblé el papel para eliminar el exceso en la zona de la cintura y dibujé una pinza para ajustar la cintura, yo aproveché una falda vieja que ya no usaba desde hace mucho tiempo, pero la tela tiene un porcentaje de elastán, lo que es bueno para que esta "pieza extra" sea cómoda.

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   Back pattern placed thus on the fold of fabric.

   El patrón de espalda colocado de esta forma sobre el doblez de la tela.

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   So I got a piece of "extra" to place inside of the back, sewn into the side seams from the armhole to the waist.

   Así conseguí una pieza "extra" para colocar en el interior de la espalda, cosida en las costuras laterales desde las sisa hasta la cintura.

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   Place the back piece on the inside of the dress and sew together the side seams and waist. Finish sewing the dress.

   Colocar en el interior de la pieza de espalda del vestido y coser juntos las costuras laterales y la cintura, terminar de coser el vestido .

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   This is the inner aspect of the dress finished, the "extra piece" of the back, attached to the front by side seams get a very flattering "adjusting" the dress to the body on the front. In addition, the fabric of this piece contains elastane, so comfort assured.

  Este es el aspecto interior del vestido acabado, la "pieza extra" de la espalda, sujeta al delantero por las costuras laterales consigue un efecto muy halagador "pegando" el vestido al cuerpo en el delantero. Además,  la tela para esta pieza contiene elastán, así que comodidad asegurada.

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   And this is the dress finished , you must excuse it still needs a good ironing, but I wanted to take photos before the daylight disappeared.
   There is still another detail that I changed to the original pattern, collar.
   This time I wanted to change the look of the dress and collar extended a little to the side to get this nice effect.

   Y esto es el vestido terminado, aunque usted debe disculpar que falta un buen planchado  todavía, pero yo quería tomar las fotos antes de que la luz del día desapareciera.
   Aún queda otro detalle que yo cambié del original, el cuello.
  Esta vez yo quería cambiar el aspecto del vestido y alargué un poco el cuello hacia un lateral para conseguir este bonito efecto.

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   Now, as always, a part that gets me greatly enjoy, look for accessories to match this dress... I think this time the possibilities are endless, the whole dress sewn of one color, it gives freedom to combine with many other colors without limitations... so more photos of outfit to come tomorrow... until then...
      Do not forget to enjoy of little things....

   Ahora, como siempre, una parte que consigue hacerme disfrutar enormemente, buscar los accesorios para combinar con este vestido... yo creo que esta vez las posibilidades son infinitas, al coser el vestido entero de un mismo color, esto da libertad para combinarlo con otros muchos colores sin limitaciones... así que más fotos del outfit por venir, mañana... hasta entonces...
    No se olvide de disfrutar de las pequeñas cosas....

28 comments:

  1. Excellent post, i noticed a few confused revuewers who disliked the back, but i agree with you - it's the whole beauty of the dress! I now don't have to reinvent the wherl thanks to you! And the bias back piece is an excellent thought! Very clever!

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  2. Very clever! I like your collar too.
    -Sewingelle

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  3. wow Rosy that's very smart and it looks so nice! I'm definitely a fan of "surprises at the back" and this one is so perfectly delivered! beautiful beautiful dress!

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  4. Thanks for your very comprehensible explanations. Now I can add this pattern to my list!!!
    Wonderful modification for the collar- I am very curious waiting to see fotos of you wearing this beautiful dress:
    Wiebke

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  5. Yes the back is lovely, I agree!I love this dress and the color too.Would you like to post it on Sew Tell Saturdays?http://www.sewcountrychick.com/2011/11/making-dress-for-school-fundraiser.html

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  6. Yes the back is lovely, I agree!I love this dress and the color too.Would you like to post it on Sew Tell Saturdays?
    Justine

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  7. I have this Burda issue and the vintage themed dresses! While I loved the line drawing of this dress, on the model it looked a bit formless to me... A tipical Burda-thing I guess. I always wonder which size the models wear, is the dress supposed to be that big of it is just the wrong size? I really love your variation, the fit looks sooooo much better! I might give it a try.

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  8. Madre mía si te ha quedado mejor que a la modelo, ahhhhhhhhhhh. Eres un hacha y una artista.
    XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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  9. Oh what a beauty! I adore your dress, thanks for sharing the foundation tip for a better fit :)

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  10. Your "inside engineering" is a brilliant idea! The dress looks beautiful.

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  11. I think the back on this dress is beautiful. You did a better interpretation than Burda! Beautiful dress.

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  12. I absoluto love the back ! The whole dress is great

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  13. That's a brilliant idea. I've been curious how the back of that dress looks on a real life person! I've seen it made up once but the person who sewed it took out the ease at the back. I love the color!

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  14. You should write a book on sewing! I can hardly wait to see the dress on you. It looks amazing on the dress form.

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  15. Ahh, so fabulous - you should be designing for #burda, your version is much better than the original! Beautiful as always!x

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  16. fantastic dress, amazing collar
    Rosy your version is absolutely better than original project...

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  17. Eres genial, no puedo esperar a verte modelar!

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  18. it's lovely, the colour is fab and you have very good attention to detail, much lovelier than the burda original.

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  19. Rosy,
    You were not the only one to like the puffed back of this dress. I thought it had great potential as soon as I saw it.
    As I am not half as smart or clever as you I would never have thought of cutting the back piece on the bias and adding some invisible support.
    You are brilliant. Thanks for sharing.

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  20. On your pictures the puff back looks much better, than on the burda magazine's picture. The fabric and especially the color you've choosen for this dress are very beautiful:-) Hope to see pictures of you wearing this dress shortly:-)

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  21. Maravilloso, sublime!, nunca dejarás de sorprenderme!.Jamás se me hubiera ocurrido añadir una pieza en la espalda. Eres una artista! Ahora tus fotitos, quiero ver tu outfit al completo! Un beso!

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  22. Fantastic - what a clever idea to keep the front flush with your body and not looking like a sack (as you say!)!

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  23. I like this version. I agree that the design of the dress is to have that "poofy" back, which I like. Your idea to have an underbodice and cut it without a seam on the bias is perfect. It create the right silhouette. And I agree with you about colour. I think I have 2 items in my wardrobe that are black. Bring on the colour!!!

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  24. Your dress is so beautiful. I liked this pattern especially the blousan back. I was not aware it was popular in the 60's so I appreciate the other patterns you showed with the same style. So clever of you to cut the back on the bias to get maximun drape and then add the back stay so that the drape stays in place and the dress fits closely at the bodice side.

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  25. Ayer fui a uno de mis restaurantes favoritos en Miami (Delicias de España) donde puedo a veces conseguir la burda y Oh, Casualidad! encontré el numero donde sale este modelo. Al verlo me acorde de ti al instante y decidi hacerlo. Voy a seguir tus modificaciones, pero tengo un favor que pedirte: puedes mostrar la modificación que le hiciste al cuello? Me parece que tu diseño es superior al de la revista. Como siempre bellísimo tu post.

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  26. Raquel, envíame un email para que yo pueda contactar contigo y enviarte un tuto.

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