Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Diving in the jacket

To end the suit in January, I bring you today the progress on the jacket that I use with the dress though there are some changes in the way ....
First it is noted that the original jacket that looks Doris Day in the movie is made with a rather thick fabric, maybe some fabric with hair .... it may be an imitation leather, or some thick velvet. I decided to use a thin material since I live on an island with a fairly mild climate, I really want to wear the jacket so if I sew it with a coarse material would probably use it once or twice a year. No, thanks.

From this first rule, if you can figure out a pattern from a finished garment, you will understand that the original jacket has a pattern like the illustration. The sleeve comes from the body of the jacket in one piece and has a seam from shoulder to cuff ..
This type of pattern was very popular in the 50s, but back to repeat that I really want to wear the jacket and it is made with a much thin material, this time I cut it with the same pattern of clothing, simply adding a centimeter to the sides to allow a margin of comfort.

Another change was the neck, thinking again that the material used by me is thinner, I did not want a collar too bulky, so instead of cutting a rounded collar, I used a simple strip of fabric cut on the bias tape wide enough to get a turtle neck open back. I liked the result!



If you ever "ripped" a jacket that was about to throw away, you'll notice that they have a wonderful "inner life. "
One of the requirements for hemming lined jackets are perfect is a strip of interlining board on bass, the hem of this jacket has four centimeters, so the interlining strip is placed four centimeters above the edge, in line bending ...
It is important that the strip of fusible bias tape is cut to order to place it in areas and go round the hem line.

 Of course, using the same technique to the hem of the sleeves ...
 Then place the lining of the sleeve over it and click a few pins to hold the top of the chute with liner ...
Then fold the edge of the lining in, lining up the edges of the liner and the sleeve on the inside .... pins.
                           Now remove the backing sleeve as shown in photo ..

Sewing machine with the edges together around ... and unite, the lining and the sleeve.
Now that the two pieces are sewn, it's time to hand sew the hem.
Make sure to take only one strand of the backing, (without touching the fabric of the sleeve) and a pinch of hem, and hem you can get a "clean", without pinching the sewing thread, although the fabric used for clothing is very, very thin.
Well ... lined sleeves, met first step .... now line the body and sew the sleeves to it. I look forward to wearing this suit!
   And you ... What are you working ...


5 comments:

  1. What a great step by step...and I love the fabric!
    Can't wait to see the final product (now that I am getting back to a better normal...)

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  2. ooohhh! Very excited for this!!!

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  3. Very interesting to see how you handle the sleeve hems. Your fabric looks beautiful. Waiting to see the final result!

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  4. so nicely done and clear explanation. Thank you.

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  5. I've been missing out of the inspiration. This is going to be a fabulous jacket. So vintage, so me. Lol. Way to go!

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